Rajasthan Diary
submitted by Anu Rao
Starting Out
October 21, 2001
Well, here I am in Rajasthan, the "land of the Kings",
and so far it has been simply amazing! We, i.e. my family consisting
of my parents and younger sister Nitya, left from the Old Delhi
Railway Station on a cool October night. The sights and smells
of the station were enough to raise our already-high excitement
levels, and brought to mind the good old days when we would travel
for days on end from one corner of India to another, the train
chugging along merrily…
Jodhpur - Day 1
October 22, 2001
The journey was comfortable, and we reached Jodhpur
this morning, and headed straight for our humble guesthouse. The
weather is extremely hot, and though the sun is blazing, this
dry heat is so much better than the unbearable Delhi heat.
After breakfast we headed out to the awesome
Mehrangarh Fort. It is simply breathtaking! The
sheer size of the fort takes your breath away – it easily
took us two hours to explore it. Its museum, temple, moat, cannons
and architecture showcase the splendour of a bygone era.
Lunch was in typical Rajasthani style –
at a roadside dhaba. We had a sumptuous meal, consisting
of dal-bhattiI, a wheat-based dish, and choorma,
a sweet made of dried fruits, as well as a curry dish called gulab
jamun! Everything was prepared with sinful helpings of ghee
and oil, and was very tasty indeed!
After lunch we headed to the spectacular Umaid
Bhavan Palace. Its sprawling, landscaped lawns caught
our immediate attention; as did the exquisite sandstone exteriors,
open courtyards and plush interiors. This architectural delight
was built by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1929, and is currently the
property of the present Maharaja Gaj Singh. It is now divided
into three parts, consisting of a museum, the Maharaja’s
personal room and a five-star luxury hotel, of which only the
former is open to the general public.
We returned to the guesthouse very hot and very
exhausted. After some much-needed rest, we headed out to Kailanga
Lake in the evening. This huge lake was built by one
of Jodhpur’s prudent maharajas to provide his rain-bereft
kingdom with water. We reached in time to witness the sunset,
whose beauty was magnified by the surrounding foliage of the lake.
At night we drove through B-Road
and C-Road, the two famous commercial shopping
centres of Jodhpur. Noisy and crowded, we quickly left them behind
and headed to the famous juti store, where we excitedly chose
the jutis, pointed Rajasthani shoes that come in a wide variety
of colours, of our choice; and loudly oohed and aahed about the
others’ purchases!
Satisfied with our shopping for the time being,
we drove through Jodhpur’s congested streets, and on reaching
the guesthouse, decided to retire for the night.
Jodhpur - Day 2
October 23, 2001
Got up bright and early, all ready for our next round of sightseeing.
We started the day with a visit to Jaswant Thada,
a memorial site built in honour of Maharaja Jaswant Singh Ji II,
by his son. From here, there is a beautiful view of the Mehrangarh
Fort. The mausoleum is built in marble, and is surrounded by a
lake, numerous royal cenotaphs and gardens. Its temple depicts
the entire lineage of the Maharajas of (what was earlier) Marwar.
Really, a trip back in time…
We then proceeded to the Mandor Gardens,
replete with a fort, enormous royal tombs, a lake, statues of
heroes and rulers of Marwar, and of course, lush gardens. The
place serves as a nice picnic spot, but we rushed on - there is
so much of Jodhpur that we are yet to see.
Our next stop was the five-storey National
Emporium, a private (read, not government) store stacked
with all things Rajasthani – quilts and bedcovers, purses,
saris and salwar kameez, crockery and cutlery, candles and other
decorative items. Mom went a bit berserk there, buying up quite
a bit of the store (!!), while the rest of us bought a few mementos
and such knick-knacks as gifts for others.
Roaming around in the hot sun, and especially
the shopping frenzy tired us out, so we decided to have an early
lunch and retire for the afternoon. Went to a nice restaurant
in the heart of the city called Mangalam and ate to our hearts
content (which I’ve decided I must stop, otherwise I’d
die of obesity or guilty conscience or both!!).
We're leaving for Jaisalmer early tomorrow morning.
Our driver, a veteran in these areas, is eager to stop and show
us all that we can see on the way. Plus, we’ve come at an
auspicious time – tomorrow is Ashtami, which the state is
all geared up to celebrate with fervour. More sights and sounds
to witness…
Jaisalmer - Day 1
October 24, 2001
Left Jodhpur at 6am, and had a pilgrimage of sorts all the way
here (which incidentally was predicted by a wandering sage in
Delhi. Initially my parents, who are now thoroughly convinced
of the authenticity of his claims, rebuffed his premonitions!
How true it has turned out.) The veteran driver, delighted that
we had come at this auspicious time, stopped at three propitious
temples –Osiyan, Ram
Deograh and Bhadriya - and made sure
we had a thorough round of each.
We passed through the Pokaran
area. Though far away from the site of the nuclear blasts, which
is a restricted area, I was very excited, nonetheless.
Reached the beautiful desert city of Jaisalmer
in the afternoon. ‘Exotic’ was the first thought that
came to my mind. Jaisalmer is also a very touristy sort of place,
which is natural, considering the city thrives on revenues from
tourism. However, with recent events (Indo-Pak tension), the tourism
industry has hit an all-time low - a very sad situation, because
Jaisalmer has so much to offer to the average tourist.
Today was a real fun day! After lunch we went
to the Havelis - beautiful sandstone mansions
that had been built by Jaisalmer's wealthy merchants. Several
of these intricately carved buildings, some 300-400 years old,
are still in beautiful condition. The small-latticed windows of
the havelis are intriguing; and the view of the entire city from
the terrace was breathtaking.
We then drove out to the Sam sand dunes.
A picturesque scene greeted us – the sun beating down, camels
walking along gracefully on the sand, colourfully attired folk
dancers and singers – all ready to lure enamoured tourists.
Both Nitya and I acted like giggly little schoolgirls atop the
camel! It was so enjoyable, swaying to and fro to the rhythm of
the ‘ship of the desert’. The camel ride was definitely
the highlight of our day!
We then joined our parents, who were being serenaded
by the folk singers, and participated merrily in the impromptu
song and dance fest. After witnessing the incredible Sam sunset
and clicking numerous snaps of the same, we drove back to our
guesthouse, a very satisfied lot.
Jaisalmer - Day 2
October 25, 2001
Today we did much driving through the barren
landscape - dotted with shrubs, cattle, sheep, donkeys, camels,
and of course, the sturdy Rajasthani folk. The hot sun beating
down ferociously, coupled with the tough landscape made me admire
the tenacity of man and beast, and the hardships that they had
to endure in this desert land.
After an early breakfast we went to Gadsisar
Lake, a man-made lake constructed by Maharaja Gadsi Singh
Ji in 1367. It is very scenic, with numerous temples around the
lake and one in its centre. An ideal place for boating.
But we had no interest in that - the majestic
Jaisalmer Fort awaited us. This huge fort is
made out of natural sandstone, and has the distinction of being
the only fort that houses the city’s residents. The intricate
carvings of the fort are splendid, and I could easily envision
the grandeur of the glorious era long past. Our tour guide had
the distinction of being the city’s first official tour
guide. His family has lived in the Jaisalmer Fort for 20 generations,
and he is a very revered man himself. He painstakingly took us
through the long winding roads of the fort and gave us a detailed
explanation of its history - every nook and corner had some interesting
anecdote to be relayed!
The tour of the fort was the easy part! Thereafter
began a strenuous journey into the desert hinterland, which proved
to be a very unique and memorable experience for a variety of
reasons. It was also a day of Temples, beginning
with the Jain temples in the fort.
We then drove through the arid countryside, reaching
the renowned Thanot temple after a drive of almost
2 hours, in time for the arati. There, we were able to witness
the temple geared up for Ram Nawami festivities. The temple has
an interesting history - according to the local inhabitants, during
the Indo-Pak war of 1965, about 15 live Pakistani missiles landed
in the temple premises, but did not explode. Moreover, as the
Pakis couldn't capture the temple, it led to the belief that divine
intervention was responsible for this miracle, and for India's
ultimate success in the war. Thus, there is great regard for the
Thanot devi in that area, which also explains the large number
of security forces that flock the temple.
The sun was blazing down mercilessly upon us,
but we continued to drive further (after reinforcing ourselves
with that all-important commodity, water) in the direction of
the Indo-Pak border. We stopped at an army post, where the young
captain in charge of the post received us. I wasn't prepared for
the sight that met our eyes - what adverse conditions our security
forces toil under! Their travails in this hot, desert land are
indescribable - a far cry from the secure lives we lead in our
towns and cities.
The young (barely in his 20s) and enterprising
captain described the hardships that a soldier undergoes in a
remote place like this. He was full of remorse for the precious
lives that our security forces lose protecting our land, and the
demoralisation in the armed forces as a result of India's policy
of restraint. It was all so poignant, and brought a lump to my
throat - how courageous and dedicated our men are…
After lunch there (a unique experience, to say
the least), we drove a few kms further to Longewala,
the site of a Pakistani tank and retrieve truck. These remnants
of the 1965 war are a reminder of how far our neighbours had advanced
into Indian territory before they were repulsed. They stand in
the hot and bleak desert terrain, testimony to the brave fight
our soldiers put up to regain our land from the intruders. A surge
of patriotism overcame me, which had been building up ever since
our visit to the army post - how much we owe to our defence personnel,
and how little recognition they get…
On our return journey, we took a diversion and
headed to the Ludarwa temple, a very celebrated
Jain temple that is more than 300 years old. Its architectural
beauty has you amazed - 'how was such intricate work carved out
of sandstone in that day and age?' I ask myself. This temple is
distinguished by the huge Kalpataru tree, which as legend
goes, fulfils your wishes. My dad staunchly believes in the powers
of the tree. He had wished way back in 1977 for a loving family,
which he would one day bring back to the temple - and lo and behold,
here we were! Not wanting to miss this opportunity, I promptly
wished something (along similar lines) for myself too!
We reached the guesthouse tired, but extremely
content. It has been a thoroughly exciting day, filled with lakes,
forts, temples, long and dusty drives, and glimpses into the life
of an Indian soldier. There is definitely more to the region that
meets the eye. This Jaisalmer expedition - a unique and varied
experience, to say the least - has definitely been the highlight
of my trip.
Ajmer
October 26, 2001
We left Jaisalmer early in the morning. It had been decided that
we would break for lunch at Jodhpur. Our first stop was Umaid
Sagar - a sparkling lake, after which we stopped for a wholesome
and utterly delicious Marwari lunch (where we all must have put
on at least a million calories!).
En route to Ajmer, we stopped at the Mata
sati temple, dedicated to the sati goddess, to whom innumerable
disciples all over Rajasthan flock once a year. Heading on, we
passed through the Aravalli Mountains, and were
struck by the change in scenery. The landscape is full of rocky
mountains and lush greenery - so different from the desert we
had left behind.
We reached Ajmer in the evening, and made our
way up the hill to the majestic Circuit House.
It housed the British Resident in colonial times, and is a grand
structure from which you can get a magnificent view of the Anna
Sagar Lake. (Actually, President Musharraf was to stay here during
his recent trip to India. This proposal was shelved due to failure
of talks between the two countries).
The city of Ajmer did not impress me too much
- I found it crowded, noisy and polluted. But what enchanted me
was Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's dargah (which President
Musharraf had been very keen to visit), where the great Sufi saint
was laid to rest. This had made Ajmer an important pilgrim centre
for all sects of Muslims, from all over the world. In fact, both
Hindus and Muslims visit the dargah, seeking a boon or just peace
of mind.
The priest blessed us, and I was suddenly filled
with a deep sense of spiritualism. It dawned on me that like all
other religions; Islam too preaches peace and harmony. However,
fanatics have destroyed its good name. Fanaticism is a great evil
of our times, and Islam has been its unwilling victim… I
left the dargah with a sense of awe, fortunate enough to get a
glimpse of the true spirit of Islam.
We then proceeded to Pushkar,
the site of the famous Pushkar Mela, the biggest cattle
fair in the country that is held there every November, where men
and women congregate from all over Rajasthan and other nearby
places to buy and sell horses, camels and cattle. We also visited
the famous Brahma temple, one of the only two
temples dedicated to Brahma. Devout Hindus believe that it is
imperative to visit this temple at least once in their lifetime.
Well, we surely secured salvation for ourselves!
Jaipur
October 27, 2001
Our final destination, Jaipur, has been a delight to visit! But,
as usual, we were faced with the dilemma of so much to do and
so little time! Leaving Ajmer in the morning, we stopped to shop
at Kishangarh, a city known for its arts and crafts. The city
is also a storehouse of marbles, and huge marble slabs line its
streets. We greatly admired the miniature paintings, especially
those made of crushed stones; and it did not surprise us in the
least to learn that Kishangarh is famous for
these miniature works of art.
We then reached the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur,
which is not called the 'Pink City' for nothing! All its buildings
are a shade of pink, maintaining the façade of the days
of old. En route to the majestic Amer Fort, we
stopped and admired the Hawa Mahal, a multi-layered
palace with a staggering number of windows and stone screens,
and the Jal Mahal, a beautiful palace situated
in the middle of a lake.
The sheer magnitude of the Amer Fort is the first
thing that struck me. Surrounded by huge ramparts and watchtowers,
the fort is strategically situated on top of the hill. My tour
guide tells me that the Kachhawa Rajputs built the fort. The architecture
is a delightful mix of Hindu and Iranian workmanship, and the
Sheesh Mahal (hall of mirrors) is covered with
an exquisite display of mirrors, which reflect any streak of light,
thus illuminating the entire room.
Jai Garh, built on a peak by
Raja Jai Singh, the founder of Jaipur, overlooks the palace. This
was where the Raja's fabulous treasure collection was stashed
away and carefully guarded. An unbelievable amount of wealth!
We reached our guesthouse late in the evening
exhausted, but dazzled by the beauty of the city. The shopping
here, as in all the other cities, was truly enjoyable. Rajasthan’s
arts and crafts have an ethnic appeal that is truly irresistible.
Its pottery, jewellery, metalwork and textiles are all characterised
by an earthy feel and vibrant colours, to whose charms I fully
succumbed! In fact, Rajasthan's handicrafts are reflective of
its rich cultural heritage.
In the evening, we visited the Birla
mandir, a dazzling temple made of marble, dedicated to
lord Vishnu. With its landscaped garden it painted a very pretty
picture, which increased manifold when illumined at night. The
mandir, adjacent to the palace of Maharani Gayatri Devi
(considered one of the most elegant women in the country), houses
a beautiful statue of lord Vishnu, and is pervaded by an atmosphere
of tranquillity.
Finally, we were off to our last destination
for the day - and of the trip too. At night we drove to Choki
Dhani, (which literally translates into 'Good Village')
a 5-star ethnic village resort. It is heavy on the pocket, but
is definitely worth a visit. We all hungrily attacked the (unlimited
and) very tasty Rajasthani food! The resort is modelled on a typical
Rajasthani village, replete with huts, folk dancers and singers,
camel and bullock-cart rides, arts and crafts, even a magician!
We were totally enchanted by all the attractions, and 2 hours
there seemed too little…
Musings
Rajasthan has been an unforgettable experience.
There is so much to see and do - the sights and sounds are almost
intoxicating. I came away thoroughly wonderstruck by the grandeur
of Rajasthan - an ancient land that has so much to offer, in terms
of its natural beauty, history, politics, culture and tradition.
I have promised myself that this will not be my last visit to
this beautiful land - after all there is so much left to explore…
Copyright ©2001 Anu Rao.
Used with Permission.
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